If you make the connections at the plug, the plug is a mirror image of the receptacle. Now remember that the terminals I just mentioned are at the RECEPTACLE. You will then have +24 volts from the Lower right terminal on the receptacle and ground at the upper right terminal. If you have properly identified the receptacle connections as you indicated in your first post, then a jumper between the upper right terminal on the receptacle to the lower left terminal on the receptacle is necessary. If you insist on using whatever plug you have AND it OR the receptacle has screw type wiring connections in it, you need to make the series connection at the receptacle or the troller plug. Simple, and far less chance to make sparks. Or you could just do what I suggested, eliminate a long run (two actually) that eliminates unnecessary voltage drop and use just two pins. To get 24 volts from this system you need a matching four pin trolling motor plug that has the jumpers in it. There are two separate circuits (one from each battery going to the receptacle -hence the four wires. Your batteries are not in series or parallel. Regardless what you do some rewiring is necessary. The reason I suggested the two wire system is a) four wires are unnecessary and b) it eliiminates a long run of cable that causes voltage drop. You now have 24 volts going to the corresponding terminals at the receptacle.ĥ) Wire the trolling motor wires to the corresponding terminals on the plug. Tape the ends of the wires as they won't be used.ģ) Now connect the red & black pair as shown in the following diagram.Ĥ) Make a jumper that connects the positive of the left battery to the negative of the right battery. One pair is connected to each battery.Ģ) Totally disconnect the orange and black pair at the battery but DO NOT cut or remove them from the boat. Here is what you do.ġ) There should be two pairs of wires (usually one red & black and one orange & black) going up front. Note that you only need two wires since the series connection is made at the batteries rather than at the connector. Do you currently have a mating plug for this receptacle? If you do, the diagram below shows the simplest way to do this. It is just a four terminal plug and it was included because the boat manufacturer felt it was necessary to accommodate 12 volt, 24 volt, and combination 12/24 volt motors which are scarce as hens teeth new these days. You can accomplish the same thing without butchering the system but I need to know what you really have up there and pictures are worth a thousand words.They have nothing to do with higher level fishing boats. So you see, one way you butcher the system and the next guy to own the boat has to figure out why the system was messed with. Then up front you would disconnect the black and red wire that weren't used, and wire the troller cable to the four prong plug so the red and black wires from the troller were on the red and black terminals on the receptacle. You could of course use one red wire from BAT #1 and the black wire from BAT #2, and then jumper BAT #2 POS to BAT #1 NEG. However, if the switches are there, you need to do some checking to see which pins actually have 24 volts on them when the switch is set to 24V. If your Motorguide operates ONLY on 24 volts (which it does because it only has two wires in the harness), you don't need the switches and what Bhile suggested will work. The boat manufacturer then complicated matters by adding a panel with the switches I mentioned. MotorGuide created most of the problems in that they offered trollers that would operate from 12 volts AND 24 volts. I'm just curious here, but if you've owned this boat for awhile, have you not noticed if there are some switches on the same panel that the receptacle is mounted on or very close to it?Ī number of boat manufacturers did some really strange things when it came to wiring boats for trolling motors.
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